Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela

The Cathedral de Santiago was by far the church we felt most connected to emotionally and spiritually of all the many churches we visited on the Camino. We spent thirty-eight days working so very hard to get here and the Cathedral didn’t disappoint us. It was our internal energy, the pilgrims around us, and the history that make this a special place.

Legend has it that the remains of St James were buried in Santiago. After his martyrdom in Jerusalem, followers are said to have sailed his body to Spain in around 44 AD. The body lay forgotten for centuries until 813 AD when a hermit, Pelayo, guided by starlight discovered St James’s tomb. King Alphonso and the Bishop Teodomiro recognized it’s spiritual significance and ordered construction of a chapel on the site. This humble chapel marked the beginning of what would eventually become the grand Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. Initially Romanesque construction would be enhanced by Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque modifications. The main façade was redesigned, and chapels were added making it the grand cathedral it is today.

We started our visits to her by attending the 7:30 PM Pilgrims Mass on the day of our arrival. We had the pleasure of enjoying mass with two of our Camino Friends, Bellevue Steve and Robert from Texas. We had to leave before Communion for a dinner reservation but attended a complete mass later on the night before we left. The next day we did a Rooftop Tour and for over an hour we got to climb all over the roof and see this amazing structure up close and personal. The next tour we did was of the Portico of Glory, the original façade at the West entrance. It was designed and created by “Master Mateo” and his workshop on the orders of King Ferdinand II of Leon. He was paid “one hundred maravedis” annually between 1168 and 1188 to complete his work. The complete Portico took until 1211 to complete at which point the Cathedral was consecrated. The Portico has exquisite carvings of Jesus and the Apostles and much more. One pillar in the center has the impression of a handprint, the result of scores of pilgrims touching the stone column as they entered the Cathedral at the end of their Pilgrimage.

The final tour was inside the Cathedral. The Main Altar is the most Baroque Altar we saw anywhere on our journey. The blessing on this tour was stepping down behind the main altar to view St James’ crypt holding the silver reliquary containing his bones and then climbing up the stairs behind the Main Altar and hugging the back of the statue of Saint James Statue. This is the true “Zero Kilometer” or end of the Camino- St. James’s Tomb.

Inside the Cathedral there is a very special “Antigua” Church. It predates the Cathedral, being built in the first third of the 9th century. It was part of a small monastery. The building of the Cathedral engulfed it. The term “Antigua” distinguishes it for being the oldest Shrine to the Virgen Mary in Santiago.

Lastly we again attended the 7:30 Pilgrim’s Mass, this time arriving very early and enjoying a front row seat in this very special place. We received a Pilgrim’s blessing and heard some very moving organ music at this mass. The enjoyment we received from the Cathedral made our hard work and determination on the Camino all the more worth the effort.