Camino Day Nine- Logrono to Najera (18.5 Miles)
Out of the hotel in Logrono early again (7:35) knowing we had another long hike to get to Najera. In addition, it was supposed to climb in temperature to over 80 degrees and only travelling through two towns for potential breaks. Chris was physically feeling better but her rash on her legs and arms was getting worse. We were not sure weather the rash was virial, a reaction to the sun, or allergic reaction to something.
Took us over an hour to climb out of town (why is there always a large hill to climb first thing in the morning?). Our morning stop was in the town of Navarrete and we were so pleased that the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption was open. It was exquisite and so worth the thirty minutes we rested as we walked, viewing all the religious art that has existed in this church for hundreds and hundreds of years.
Chris and John stop at every church along the Camino. The negative (and it is not a complaint) is that most are closed, truly only maybe 15% are open. When they are they all take your breath away.
We are in the Rioja Region now, one of the major wine regions of Spain. We have been buying Rioja wines for years in anticipation of this trip, and it is so enjoyable to walk through the countryside and seeing the vines, the workers picking the grapes, and knowing that every Winery we walk by is in the process of the Crush.
We limped into Najera around 4:00 and checked into the hotel. We showered and were ready to put our feet up when Chris looked out our window and spotted six Matadors in full dress walking out of our hotel. John went wild and got on the computer and found out there was a Bullring right here in Najera. We slipped on our sandals and went to the Bullfight. We so enjoyed the pageantry of the event but not so much the ending. We watched two Matadors duel their bulls and then we quickly departed. It is a cultural experience we will not forget and that is one of the reasons we are on this pilgrimage.
We had a very nice dinner along the river, a hamburger and a large fresh salad and headed home for a good night sleep.
Nájera was home to one of the absolute giants in the Spanish antiques business, and one of my dearest friends … José Manuel Cerrajería (“Cerra” to everyone who knew him) was, for 20+ years, the largest wholesaler to the trade of unrestored period antiques in all of northern Spain. He had so many great pieces, that on every buying trip I would dedicate two entire days to walking through his warehouses and storage units to see everything. We lost an incredible antiques dealer on April 3rd of this year, as well as the most loyal friend one could ever have. D.E.P. Cerra, amigo!
What an adventure! I’m glad Chris is feeling a bit better! Stay Strong and Carry On, my friends!